Swordfish with Tomatoes and Capers — Recipes

(Inspired by “Swordfish with Tomatoes and Capers,” p. 151, Cornfields to Codfish;

and Ina Garten’s recipe below)

Be not afraid of the fennel bulb. Until this recipe, I had rarely used fennel, but now we are friends. Chop the fronds off the top; then treat it much like an onion. I wash the bulb and do not trim any outer layers away. Cut the bulb into quarters, top down as the fennel bulb sits upright on its haunches, and then trim the core out, much like you trim the core out of an onion.

Smell the anise? When the onions and fennel go into the pan, stand by to stir, yes, but smell. . . smell . . . smell the changes through those ten minutes before the garlic is added. The onions and fennel morph into a mellowed-out version of their intense individual raw aromas. Then, with a little help from the oil, they sweat and start looking like one another – as if the oil emulsifies them into one visually indistinct vegetable. . . the fennion or the oniel?

Maintain this inhaling of ingredients with every addition from tomatoes to chicken stock and wine, and finally, basil and butter. Experiencing the stratospheres of aroma in this sauce is a cook’s joy. Honestly, it just may be for this selfish reason that I make Swordfish with Tomatoes and Capers for guests.

“A few hours before dinner, in a large high-sided skillet, flavors are coaxed out over time through layers of ingredients – onions and fennel pop in olive oil, followed by the mingling of garlic. Then tomatoes, salt, and pepper. Minutes later, wine … — “A few hours before dinner, in a large high-sided skillet, flavors are coaxed out over time through layers of ingredients – onions and fennel pop in olive oil, followed by the mingling of garlic. Then tomatoes, salt, and pepper. Minutes later, wine and chicken stock join the orchestra. I cook the sauce through a ten-minute simmer; then I take it off the heat. Later, when the swordfish goes on the grill, I bring the tomato and fennel magic back to a simmer and finish it off with basil and butter.” (p. 152, *Cornfields to Codfish*)

I’ve considered making two batches of this sauce at the same time – one for that day’s dinner and another to freeze for a future easy dinner. To freeze a batch, I would stop cooking the sauce after adding the tomatoes and cooking them for 15 minutes. Then, when I thawed it out and reheated it, I would proceed with the last two layers: chicken stock and wine, followed by butter and basil.

We have only a gas grill, not a charcoal grill as Ina refers to in her recipe. I grill 1-inch thick fillets on medium-high heat, 5 minutes per side. The fillets will continue to cook a bit when they come off the grill, particularly if you tent foil over them. Be careful not to overcook as overly done swordfish loses its flavorful juices.

Swordfish with Tomatoes and Capers

Serves 4

1 cup chopped yellow onion (1 onion)

1 cup chopped fennel (1 bulb)

3 tablespoons good olive oil

1 teaspoon minced garlic

28 ounces canned plum tomatoes, drained

1 teaspoon kosher salt

¾ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons chicken stock

2 tablespoons good dry white wine

½ cup chopped fresh basil leaves

2 tablespoons capers, drained

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

4 1-inch-thick swordfish fillets (about 2 ½ pounds)

Fresh basil leaves

For the sauce, cook the onions and fennel in the oil in a large sauté pan on medium-low heat for 10 minutes, until the vegetables are soft. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds. Add the drained tomatoes, smashing them in the pan with a fork, plus the salt and pepper. Simmer on low heat for 15 minutes. Add the chicken stock and white wine and simmer for 10 more minutes to reduce the liquid. Add the basil, capers, and butter and cook for 1 minute more.

Prepare a grill with hot coals. Brush the swordfish with olive oil, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Grill on high heat for 5 minutes on each side until the center is no longer raw. Do not overcook. Place the sauce on the bottom of a plate, arrange the swordfish on top, and garnish with basil leaves. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Notes from Ina:

This sauce is also delicious with other grilled fish, such as cod or red snapper.

When it is too cold to grill outdoors, I use a cast-iron stovetop grill.